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Channel: Old Tbilisi – Culinary Backstreets
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Alani

Last week we had a hankering for baked brains, and in Tbilisi that used to mean only one thing – a visit to Alani, the Ossetian restaurant near the sulfur baths in Old Tbilisi. The venue is named after...

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Sarcho

Foreigners call it “cheese pie,” but khachapuri translates to “curds bread” – although it is much, much more than that. It is, without a doubt, Georgia’s most signature victual. In a land with no...

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Cafe Littera

We are sitting under the tonic canopy of an enormous pine tree in a hidden Tbilisi garden, licking our lips over menu items that are neither European nor Georgian. When our dining companion informs us...

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Shavi Lomi

In the Caucasus, guests are considered gifts from God. Georgians like to call them okros stumrebi – “golden guests” – an endearment that illustrates the stature the ever-hospitable Georgians give to...

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Tbilisi Sketches

Editor’s note: This is the first installment in our new monthly series, Tbilisi Sketches, with illustrated dispatches covering local spots in Georgia’s capital. Contributor Andrew North is an artist...

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Fowl Play in Tbilisi’s Central Bazaar

Chickens cooling off and on display, upside down in Tbilisi’s central Bazaar.The post Fowl Play in Tbilisi’s Central Bazaar appeared first on Culinary Backstreets.

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Citron Plus

StoryTbilisi’s Vake Park district is an upscale neighborhood full of designer cafés and fancy-looking Georgian-European restaurants offering mediocre grub at prices that complement the black SUVs and...

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The Khinkali Chronicles, Part 2

StoryIn Tbilisi, we have mornings when we wake up wrinkled and dehydrated, and as we lie in bed knuckling the sleep from our eyes, we hear an all too familiar chorus beckoning us to “bite me, slurp me,...

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Vampire-Thwarting Chkmeruli in Tbilisi

This steaming serving of chkmeruli (Georgian garlic chicken) is guaranteed to keep vampires away for a week. One may encounter a tasty (and protective) dish like this on our Tbilisi walk.The post...

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Hello Moonshine

Tour [acf field="information_price"] Spread out under the majestic Caucasus mountain range like an 11,000 square meter grape basket is the Alazani Valley. Located in the Kakheti region in east Georgia,...

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The Treasures of Tbilisi’s Dezerter’s Bazaar

These fresh, beautiful pomegranates are among the innumerable great finds in Tbilisi’s Dezerter’s Bazaar, an extensive market that is the backbone of our culinary walk in the city. The post The...

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Gabriadze Café

Story When we arrived in Tbilisi in 2001, there was one café/restaurant that was a beacon to those seeking an alternative to the traditional Georgian dining experience of stark rooms and banquet tables...

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The Treasures of Tbilisi’s Dezerter’s Bazaar

We can’t think of a better way to start off a Saturday in the new year than with a jolting shot of chacha chased with a sharp wedge of sheep’s cheese at Tbilisi’s Dezerter’s Bazaar. This market is the...

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Seasonal Strawberries in Tbilisi

Flashback to the end of March, when we encountered the first strawberries of the season at the central bazaar in Tbilisi, the focal point of our culinary walk. The post Seasonal Strawberries in Tbilisi...

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Choice Cuts at the Dezerter Bazaar

Tbilisi’s main bazaar offers a vast array of goods, including a wide variety of the choicest pork cuts. We didn’t say it was for the faint of heart! The post Choice Cuts at the Dezerter Bazaar appeared...

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A Scene From Tbilisi’s Deserter’s Bazaar

These elderly men are enjoying a game of cards next to blocks of cheese at Tbilisi’s Deserter’s Bazaar. This exciting market is the city’s largest open-air market, and forms the basis of our culinary...

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Tbilisi’s Buzzing Bazaar

The Dezerter Bazaar is a beautiful behemoth of a place that serves as the main focus of our Tbilisi walk. Get ready for its extensive selection of wondrous wares! The post Tbilisi’s Buzzing Bazaar...

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Georgian Moonshine and a Countryside Feast

Here’s a flashback to our special event in the countryside of eastern Georgia, where we learned about the process of making chacha, the ubiquitous moonshine culled from the remnants of winemaking. The...

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Making Moonshine in Kakheti

An important part of our chacha journey is making sure that the moonshine still is sealed with a putty made of ash, earth and water. The post Making Moonshine in Kakheti appeared first on Culinary...

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Dried Fruits Sweeten A Dreary Winter’s Day

Churchkhelas, Georgia’s traditional homemade energy bar made of grape must, nuts and flour, and dried and candied fruits add a burst of color at the Deserter’s Bazaar in Tbilisi. While the churchkhelas...

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