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Channel: Old Tbilisi – Culinary Backstreets
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A Butcher and His Beef at the Dezerter Bazaar

Aging beef is not a traditional process in Georgia. So it is very likely that this beef, on display at a butcher’s stall in Tbilisi’s Dezerter Bazaar, was mooing a day or two earlier. The post A...

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Dried Fruits Sweeten A Dreary Winter’s Day

Churchkhelas, Georgia’s traditional homemade energy bar made of grape must, nuts and flour, and dried and candied fruits add a burst of color at the Deserter’s Bazaar in Tbilisi. While the churchkhelas...

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Making Moonshine in Kakheti

An important part of our chacha journey is making sure that the moonshine still is sealed with a putty made of ash, earth and water. The post Making Moonshine in Kakheti appeared first on Culinary...

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Choice Cuts at the Dezerter Bazaar

Tbilisi’s main bazaar offers a vast array of goods, including a wide variety of the choicest pork cuts. We didn’t say it was for the faint of heart! The post Choice Cuts at the Dezerter Bazaar appeared...

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Georgian Moonshine and a Countryside Feast

Here’s a flashback to our special event in the countryside of eastern Georgia, where we learned about the process of making chacha, the ubiquitous moonshine culled from the remnants of winemaking. The...

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Tbilisi’s Buzzing Bazaar

The Dezerter Bazaar is a beautiful behemoth of a place that serves as the main focus of our Tbilisi walk. Get ready for its extensive selection of wondrous wares! The post Tbilisi’s Buzzing Bazaar...

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Seasonal Strawberries in Tbilisi

Flashback to the end of March, when we encountered the first strawberries of the season at the central bazaar in Tbilisi, the focal point of our culinary walk. The post Seasonal Strawberries in Tbilisi...

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Cheese in Sheep’s Clothing

Guda cheese is sheep cheese from eastern Georgia, aged in guda, which is sheep skin. Nowadays most guda is aged in plastic, but we found one vendor at the Deserter’s Bazaar in Tbilisi who has the real...

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Strawberry Season in Tbilisi

Piles of strawberries can be found all over the Deserter’s Bazaar at this time of year. It’s a shame that the season is so short – we only have about one month – but we’ll take what we can get,...

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All Hail the Pickle Queen

Nunu Gachecheladze, our “pickle queen” at the Deserter’s Bazaar, pickles everything on site from produce she gets at the bazaar, based on her family recipe. While they’re all outstanding, our favorites...

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A Butcher and His Beef at the Dezerter Bazaar

Aging beef is not a traditional process in Georgia. So it is very likely that this beef, on display at a butcher’s stall in Tbilisi’s Dezerter Bazaar, was mooing a day or two earlier. The post A...

View Article

Dried Fruits Sweeten A Dreary Winter’s Day

Churchkhelas, Georgia’s traditional homemade energy bar made of grape must, nuts and flour, and dried and candied fruits add a burst of color at the Deserter’s Bazaar in Tbilisi. While the churchkhelas...

View Article

Making Moonshine in Kakheti

An important part of our chacha journey is making sure that the moonshine still is sealed with a putty made of ash, earth and water. The post Making Moonshine in Kakheti appeared first on Culinary...

View Article


Georgian Moonshine and a Countryside Feast

Here’s a flashback to our special event in the countryside of eastern Georgia, where we learned about the process of making chacha, the ubiquitous moonshine culled from the remnants of winemaking. The...

View Article

Tbilisi’s Buzzing Bazaar

The Dezerter Bazaar is a beautiful behemoth of a place that serves as the main focus of our Tbilisi walk. Get ready for its extensive selection of wondrous wares! The post Tbilisi’s Buzzing Bazaar...

View Article


A Scene From Tbilisi’s Deserter’s Bazaar

These elderly men are enjoying a game of cards next to blocks of cheese at Tbilisi’s Deserter’s Bazaar. This exciting market is the city’s largest open-air market, and forms the basis of our culinary...

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Choice Cuts at the Dezerter Bazaar

Tbilisi’s main bazaar offers a vast array of goods, including a wide variety of the choicest pork cuts. We didn’t say it was for the faint of heart! The post Choice Cuts at the Dezerter Bazaar appeared...

View Article


Seasonal Strawberries in Tbilisi

Flashback to the end of March, when we encountered the first strawberries of the season at the central bazaar in Tbilisi, the focal point of our culinary walk. The post Seasonal Strawberries in Tbilisi...

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The Treasures of Tbilisi’s Dezerter’s Bazaar

We can’t think of a better way to start off a Saturday in the new year than with a jolting shot of chacha chased with a sharp wedge of sheep’s cheese at Tbilisi’s Dezerter’s Bazaar. This market is the...

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Gabriadze Café

Story When we arrived in Tbilisi in 2001, there was one café/restaurant that was a beacon to those seeking an alternative to the traditional Georgian dining experience of stark rooms and banquet tables...

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